Day Trip to Bacalar from Playa del Carmen — Lagoon of Seven Colors

Bacalar — Mexico's Best-Kept Secret
Bacalar is that place expats in Playa del Carmen whisper about — a small town on the shore of a 42-kilometer freshwater lagoon so impossibly beautiful it's called the "Lagoon of Seven Colors" (Laguna de los Siete Colores). The water shifts through shades of turquoise, sapphire, indigo, and crystal clear depending on the depth, the time of day, and the angle of the sun.
As one community member put it simply: "Bacalar is my absolute paradise." Another recommended it alongside Mexico's best destinations: "In Mexico: Bacalar, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, México City."
It's farther from Playa del Carmen than Tulum or Mérida, but many who've been say it's the most beautiful place in all of the Yucatán Peninsula.
Getting to Bacalar from Playa del Carmen
Bacalar is about 310 km south of Playa del Carmen. It's a commitment — but worth every kilometer.
By ADO Bus
- Cost: $450–$700 MXN one way ($27–$41 USD)
- Travel time: 4–5 hours
- Departure: ADO station on 20th Avenue, Playa del Carmen
- Frequency: Several departures daily, including early morning
- Arrival: Bacalar's ADO station. A community member asked: "Does anyone know how much a taxi in Bacalar would be from the ADO to the town center?" — it's about $50–$80 MXN, or a 15-minute walk.
By Car (Recommended)
Driving gives you the most flexibility, especially for exploring the lagoon and nearby areas.
- Drive time: 3.5–4 hours via Highway 307 south
- Route: Playa del Carmen → Tulum → Felipe Carrillo Puerto → Bacalar. Straightforward, mostly one road.
- Gas: ~$700–$1,000 MXN round trip
- Road conditions: Generally good. Watch for topes (speed bumps) through towns.
One community member looking to rent for the trip asked: "Anyone can recommend a reliable, affordable non-scammy car rental for a Bacalar trip?" Quick Cars and Mexicar are community favorites for rentals.
Another member noted the distance: "Bacalar is a long way." — it's true, which is why an overnight stay is strongly recommended.
By Tren Maya
The Maya Train serves Bacalar. Check current schedules at the Tren Maya website or app for the latest routes and pricing.
What to Do in Bacalar
The Lagoon of Seven Colors
The lagoon is the main event. Its incredible colors come from the varying depths of crystal-clear freshwater over white limestone and stromatolites (living rock formations that are among the oldest life forms on Earth).
- Swimming — The lagoon is swimmable virtually everywhere. The water is warm, calm, and incredibly clear. No waves, no salt — just pure freshwater paradise.
- Boat tours — The most popular activity. Tours typically last 3–4 hours and cover the lagoon's highlights: the Pirates' Channel, Cenote Negro (a 90-meter deep cenote within the lagoon), Cenote Esmeralda, and the stromatolite islands. Cost: $200–$400 MXN per person for group tours, $1,500–$3,000 MXN for private boats.
- Kayaking & paddleboarding — Rentals available at most lakefront hotels and restaurants. $100–$300 MXN per hour. The calm water is perfect for beginners.
- Sailing — Several operators offer sailboat tours. A more relaxed way to see the lagoon.
The Cenote Azul
Not to be confused with the Cenote Azul near Playa del Carmen, this cenote is a deep, circular pool right next to the lagoon. It's a popular swimming spot with a restaurant and facilities. Entry ~$50 MXN.
Fort San Felipe
A small 18th-century Spanish fort on the lagoon shore. Now houses a piracy museum. Entry ~$80 MXN. The roof offers beautiful views of the lagoon and town. Quick visit (30–45 minutes).
Xul-Há
A community member recommends a nearby hidden gem: "I would visit Xul-Há — it's a town next to Bacalar, only a 15-minute drive but the water is beautiful. I recommend 'Mia Xul-Ha.'" Less touristy and equally stunning.
The Town of Bacalar
Bacalar town is small, quiet, and charming. The main plaza has restaurants, shops, and a relaxed vibe. The waterfront malecón (boardwalk) is perfect for sunset walks. This is not a party town — it's a place to disconnect.
Where to Eat in Bacalar
- Waterfront restaurants — Several restaurants along the lagoon offer incredible views and decent food. Prices are moderate by tourist standards.
- Enamora Bacalar — Popular for brunch with lagoon views
- Mango y Chile — Good Mexican food, local favorite
- La Playita — Casual waterfront dining, great for sunset
- Street tacos in town — The usual $20–$40 MXN per taco. Look for places where locals eat.
Suggested Itineraries
Day Trip (Long but Doable)
- 5:00 AM — Leave Playa del Carmen by car
- 8:30 AM — Arrive in Bacalar, breakfast at a lagoon-side restaurant
- 10:00 AM — Boat tour of the lagoon (3 hours)
- 1:00 PM — Lunch and swimming at a waterfront spot
- 3:00 PM — Cenote Azul or Xul-Há side trip
- 4:30 PM — Start the drive back
- 8:00 PM — Arrive in Playa del Carmen
Overnight Trip (Recommended)
Day 1:
- 7:00 AM — ADO bus or drive to Bacalar
- 11:00 AM — Check in, settle in. Swim in the lagoon.
- 2:00 PM — Lunch at a waterfront restaurant
- 4:00 PM — Kayak or paddleboard
- 6:00 PM — Sunset from the malecón or Fort San Felipe roof
- 7:30 PM — Dinner in town
Day 2:
- 8:00 AM — Breakfast
- 9:30 AM — Boat tour (3–4 hours)
- 1:30 PM — Quick lunch, visit Xul-Há
- 3:30 PM — Drive or bus back to Playa
Where to Stay in Bacalar
Accommodation in Bacalar is generally more affordable than the Riviera Maya:
| Type | Price Range (MXN/night) | Price Range (USD/night) |
|---|---|---|
| Hostels & budget | $300–$600 | $18–$35 |
| Mid-range hotels | $800–$2,000 | $47–$120 |
| Boutique/lakefront | $2,000–$5,000 | $120–$295 |
| Luxury lakefront | $5,000–$10,000 | $295–$590 |
Pro tip: Book a hotel or Airbnb with direct lagoon access. Waking up and jumping into those turquoise waters is the entire point of Bacalar.
Practical Tips
Stromatolites — Handle with Care
The stromatolites in Bacalar's lagoon are living organisms that have been growing for thousands of years. They look like underwater rocks but are actually colonies of microorganisms. Do not stand on, kick, or touch them. They're incredibly fragile and take centuries to recover from damage. Responsible tourism is essential to keeping Bacalar beautiful.
What to Bring
- Reef-safe/biodegradable sunscreen (required)
- Swimsuit and towel
- Cash (many places don't take cards)
- Mosquito repellent (especially for evenings)
- Waterproof phone case for the boat tour
- A good book — Bacalar is for relaxing
When to Visit
- Best months: November–April (dry season, lower humidity)
- Avoid: Semana Santa (Easter week) and Mexican holiday weekends — the lagoon gets crowded with domestic tourists
- Weekdays: Much quieter than weekends year-round
Development Warning
Bacalar is developing rapidly. What was a sleepy backpacker town five years ago now has new hotels and restaurants popping up constantly. Visit sooner rather than later to experience it before it changes further. That said, it's still light-years from the development level of Playa or Tulum.
Is Bacalar Worth the Trip?
Absolutely. The lagoon is genuinely one of the most beautiful bodies of water in Mexico, and the experience of swimming in those impossibly blue colors is unforgettable. The distance from Playa del Carmen makes it feel like a real adventure — and keeps the day-tripper crowds manageable.
If you can only do one "farther" trip from Playa del Carmen, make it Bacalar.